
Guide
Planning Costa Smeralda and La Maddalena
Choose Palau or La Maddalena, separate the ferry from Caprera access and clarify boat permits and the guided route to Cala Coticcio.
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Quick facts
- Best time
- June, September, May for quieter roads
- Recommended duration
- 3–5 nights / 4–6 travel days
- Budget range
- Low: EUR 100–170 per person/day · Mid: EUR 200–380 per person/day · Comfort: from EUR 450 per person/day
- With kids
- Yes
Orientation
Plan your stay
Palau is the mainland base for ferries and excursion boats. La Maddalena gives you island evenings and the road connection to Caprera. Porto Cervo makes sense when you specifically want to stay there or beside a Costa Smeralda bay.
Three nights give two full days: one mainland bay day and one La Maddalena or Caprera visit. Four or five nights work better for another island boat trip and weather flexibility.

I would choose Palau for an island visit within a road trip, and La Maddalena for several days on the two connected islands. Settle a guided Coticcio booking before arranging the ferry around it.
Alex Travels · TravelHighlights.io
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Map
Guide map
- Planning Costa Smeralda and La Maddalena
Mini itinerary
- 1Day 1: Arrive in Palau; first night.
- 2Day 2: One Costa Smeralda bay, such as Capriccioli or Grande Pevero; second night.
- 3Day 3: Ferry to La Maddalena and an island visit, potentially Caprera; third Palau night.
- 4Day 4: Depart, or add a boat day and fourth night; a fifth night provides a free reserve day.
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Planning notes
Avoid These Common Mistakes
Confusing a vessel permit with a ferry ticket
The permit platform includes permissions for vessel operators. An ordinary ferry visit needs the ticket and any applicable route charges checked.
Planning a second ferry for Caprera
A bridge links La Maddalena to Caprera, though onward road and beach access still take time.
Walking to Coticcio without a guide booking
Cala Coticcio and Cala Brigantina are in a tightly regulated zone. Arrange authorised guidance and an available place first.
Travel planning answers
Planning questions
How long is the ferry crossing?+
Maddalena Lines quotes roughly 15–20 minutes between Palau and La Maddalena. Add waiting, vehicle loading and approach travel.
Does Caprera require another ferry?+
No. A bridge connects it to La Maddalena. Allow for roads, parking and the specific walking approach afterwards.
Does every visitor need a boat permit?+
No. An individual vessel/activity permit differs from a ferry passenger ticket. For an organised excursion, ask the operator about permissions and included charges.
Can I hike to Cala Coticcio alone?+
Regulated access to Coticcio and Brigantina is with authorised guides. Use park information to confirm a guide, place and conditions.
Palau or La Maddalena?+
Palau simplifies mainland bays and onward driving. La Maddalena suits several island days and evenings without returning by ferry each day.
Worth it / Skip if
Worth it
For selected granite bays and a full island day with clear ferry or tour arrangements.
Skip if
You want to avoid additional ferry and boat journeys or focus entirely on long hikes.
With kids
A short crossing does not guarantee a short beach approach. Check access, shade and return travel; Coticcio is a guided hike rather than a roadside beach.
Budget range
Low
EUR 100–170 per person/day
Mid
EUR 200–380 per person/day
Comfort
from EUR 450 per person/day
Guide details
Palau and La Maddalena solve different journeys
Palau avoids taking your road-trip car onto the island every day. La Maddalena makes sense as a base for several days there and on Caprera. A Porto Cervo stay is not required for Costa Smeralda beaches such as Capriccioli or Grande Pevero; compare the actual hotel and beach parking instead.
Keep one base for three nights. Arrival on day 1, a mainland bay on day 2, an island visit on day 3 and departure on day 4 create two full outing days. A cruise to the outer islands would need another day or replace the land visit.
Ferry to La Maddalena, bridge to Caprera
Check or book Palau–La Maddalena with your chosen company. Maddalena Lines quotes about 15–20 minutes on the water. Approach travel, waiting and car loading are additional. Delcomar separates passengers and vehicle categories in its quote; compare the complete return cost.
A bridge connects La Maddalena to Caprera, so there is no second ferry to arrange. Without a car, check a specific bus, bicycle or tour connection on the islands first. Apparent harbour proximity on an overview map does not make the more remote Caprera coves a short walk away.
Distinguish three booking types
For an ordinary ferry visit, buy a passenger and, if needed, vehicle ticket with its stated charges. This does not automatically require applying for your own national-park vessel permission.
For an organised boat excursion, ask which park charges, permissions and landings are included. With a self-operated rental or your own boat, check the current park permits, zones and anchoring rules for that craft. A rental confirmation alone does not answer those questions.
Cala Coticcio needs a guided hike booking
Cala Coticcio and Cala Brigantina on Caprera lie in a specially protected zone. Plan the walk with an authorised guide and a confirmed place. The park updated the application procedure for guides in June 2026; use its current visitor information to clarify guidance, contributions and conditions.
Driving over the bridge or arriving early at the trail does not establish permission to enter. Match the ferry and meeting point to the confirmed excursion. For an unplanned swimming day, choose a specifically permitted beach approach that suits you and respect local closures.
A fourth day gives you a real choice
Four nights allow a boat day alongside the mainland bay and island land visit; five nights add a free day that can absorb a wind-related change. In the full Sardinia itinerary, an island night replaces a Palau night rather than being quietly added to the total.
The daily ranges above are broad editorial allowances per person for two adults sharing accommodation, with food and local transport. They are not current room quotations. Flights, ferries, boat excursions, guided walks and special admissions are additional. For island accommodation in particular, compare the complete journeys and incidental costs.
Sources & Last updated
Last updated: 2026-09-07
Sources
- Delcomar: Palau–La Maddalena ferry; passengers and vehicles are separate categories.(checked: 2026-09-07)
- Maddalena Lines: Approximate crossing of 15–20 minutes, excluding waiting.(checked: 2026-09-07)
- Sardegna Turismo Caprera: Bridge connection from La Maddalena to Caprera.(checked: 2026-09-07)
- Nationalpark La Maddalena: Regulated trail access to Coticcio/Brigantina with authorised guides.(checked: 2026-09-07)
- Nationalpark La Maddalena, 18.06.2026: Updated guide authorisation process from 22 June 2026.(checked: 2026-09-07)
- Nationalpark La Maddalena – Genehmigungen: Vessel/activity permits are distinct from ordinary ferry passenger tickets.(checked: 2026-09-07)
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